Givenchy Couture 2009 Fall

Wow. This is the most intriguing and truly international collection I have ever seen. It brings together cultural strengths that have been brought together to create a new world; which accepts and nurtures all ideas. The Givenchy vision is one of the future~

Trends in this collection include: Peg-top pants which place emphasis the hips, while closing the ankle. Dropping the crotch of the pants is only able to work because of the luxuriousness of the fabric, which drapes beautifully. But this trend is not for everyone. It might hide heavier hips but it also shortens the body and should be worn with care. The Givenchy practice of perfectly matching socks and shoes is a perfect way to re-extend the leg.

photo source: www.style.com

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama is a beautiful woman with a smart sense of style.  It is bold in colour, but powerful in its simplicity.  She doesn't blend into the background like most political women, who tend to look too old granny-ish, too forced business-like or simply not in the picture (like which one is she?).  Mrs. Obama is able to project not only an image of leadership, but one of a woman.  An also of a well balanced woman whom is also a wife, mother and friend.  Her style is sophisticated and not overwhelming, but it still grabs your attention. 
The first outfit that I can remember seeing her wear is the black dress with what I could only describe as blood splashed across the front.  The bold choice of red on black told me that this would be a woman who was strong and had her own ideas and what going places; or of a stylist who didn't have a clue.  It reminded me of the battle paint of forever ago which warriors would use to adorn their bodies before a battle.  Using the paint not only to display their ideas, strengths and relations, but to display to others that they had no fear. 

This was a brilliant statement for the new first lady to make.  With America being a focal point in most international issues; it was important that something was said.  For women and men living in other countries with different values and customs its important that these images of strong women are expressed.  I'd get into the debate of the warrior queens and their affects on the world, but blogs aren't meant as essays.

Not only is Michelle Obama becoming the first black, first lady, she is about to be entering into a public position which has a tradition of drama.  This dress says "bring it on"; she's ready and willing to make a difference.
This outfit is a white house classic.  The updated colours, patterns and accessories bring this 1960's ensemble to the now.
Her trend of exposing strong bare arms are able to suggest that not only does she have nothing to hide, but she is ready to get her hands in and get dirty.  

This outfit is a perfect example of mature layering.  The professional length of her skirt shows respect and shows off her trim figure.  The layering of a white collared top with a low-cut sweater give her an every-day edge and a 'this is me' look which allows the general population to relate to her directly; not separating herself in a pant suit, while still being professional.
This picture of Michelle Obama and the French first lady in practically the same outfit (i bet they both have matching dresses underneath), shows her attraction to strong colours and patterns rather then sticking to the safe or basic colours.
I'm pretty sure that i've steamed a dress exactly like this one in the Ryerson University Fashion Collection.  Up close it doesn't matter that it's a 1950's wrap dress, because a truly beautiful dress is timeless.

She would definitely be an interesting individual to meet.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Couture

A well put together collection which many women could base their fall wardrobes on or use to bring life to a wardrobe of classics.  The styles range from business to play, giving a range of items to full one's life.  Gaultier continues his powerful design tastes by including a number of his imaginative ideas, which most likely won't be purchased.  But that is not why they were created and those inspirational and forward thinking ideas are what make him a designer's designer.

 Although the structural lines (seams) are sharp with a strong shoulder, they aren't heavy.  The shoulders tend to reflect that of amour, in their built-up manor, but not of a line-backer.  They're more sleek, with more agility than brute strength.  The trend of emphasis on the hips continues as well, with the hips being caged in built-up frames.

Pant styles are moving towards a harlem influence; skimming over the thighs to bellow just before the ankles and until the leg line curves into the leg itself again.

The colours are in the darkest range of: blacks, greys, deep-set reds, contrasted with golds, whites slivers.

Photo Source: www.style.com

Background

I'm going to be a fourth year Fashion Design Student at Ryerson University this fall and for my final project I've chosen to design and build a women's professional line based in Toronto.

     I created this blog to be able to understand the women which I want to design.  I've gathered quite a bit of fashion knowledge since I launched my first fashion design business when i was 17 and am hoping that by having a blog I'll be able to learn even more.  

I'm planning to base this blog on the cutting edge trends that are found on the streets of Downtown Toronto, taking pictures of trends and interesting finds.  I'm also going to be posting information about: the style choices of popular/powerful women, quality checks of well-made garments, reporting on high fashion trends, everyday fashion trends, and answering any questions people might have about fashion or anything (research is kinda addicting). 

A note on popular/powerful women posts: I would be open to suggestions of aspirational women with style

The Origin of the Suit

The suit was created based on an unknown individual’s rational desire to be more comfortable in their armor.  Possibly with a direct intent not to be injured by their armor before they reach the battlefield.  Medieval armor required a padded garment to protect and support the heavy armor.  In order to work, it had to be fitted; easy to put on and follow the natural lines of body.  

This probably ended up being a basic wool padded suit made up of ‘pant, vest and jacket’.  This basic suit soon fell to the mercy of status and fashion.  People have always been obsessed with the powerful and popular. Imagine the romanticism of knighthood and the glory of wealth and courage.  Those 

privileged enough to carry the knighthood would want a way to show it off and gain status and acceptance.  

At some point a trend of knights wearing padded suits without the armor on their ‘days-off’; so that people would know who they were.  Probably centuries ago, some lazy knight broke the fashion laws of the age and didn’t change after knightly duties before heading to the pub. This lucky guy must have picked up the hottest barmaid in the land that night.  And the next night all his friends tried their luck and from their it expanded to the full-out frilly glory of the Sun King decades later.  Suddenly the knights’ simple trend of wearing their padded suits regularly, set off a change reaction of all men wanting to wear these decorated suits as well. These simple woolen padded suits evolved into the seventeenth century’s Louis XIV’s wildly ‘fauvistic’ bright floral frock coats accompanied by yards of ribbons, laces and jewels.  Tailoring was an art in this age because of the skin tight fashion of wearing these suits.  Louis XIV had decreed that in his court men had to wear not only a long jacket, vest and trouser, but a wig, cravat and hat. Too bad most men don’t realize these days, the impression of sexy a well-pressed cravat has on quite a few females. Something about an era that’s been romanticized our entire lives that has us programmed to instinctually want men whom are able to wear cravats well.

Our more ‘modern’ form of the suit originated from the nineteenth century ‘sack-suit’.  The sack suit was the causal wear of the upper class and the sunday best of the lower class.  It can be described as a sac suit because of it’s loose fit in comparison to the frock coats (painted on if they could), tailoring is expensive and a loose fitting version allowed the suits to be pasted down to fit the generations. 

Although the image of being picked up for prom with my date in a skin-tight blue orchid silk brocade frock coat would have shown off some of his finer features.  I think that my father would have had something to say about the codpiece (which was needed to tie the pants closed and is basically a nob of fabric attached at the crotch area).  And my mother might have been worried about my dress being able to keep up with the pictorial demands of standing beside a man in an elaborate suit.  Frankly, I’d pray that his lace cuffs were replaced with leather.  Thus, hopefully allowing some type of masculine edge to his floral stylings. Although his distractingly perfect posture demanded by the suit could cause driving issues just trying to get to prom, lift your arms much?  Thank the gods, that after World War I someone had the sense to design a formal version of the sac suit: the tuxedo. 

So is the business suit the armor worn for the glory of the day? 

Does it protect us and empower us?  

Suits do give some types of power, generally woman are an easy mark for their lovers when they’re propositioned in well fitted suits.  Sure, it could be because the suit brings out the colour of their eyes.  But I’m leaning towards the damsel & knight socialized desires for beauty, power and status... certainly not over-looking the passionate possibilities of those who live without fear and are bathed in the glory of courage...